Hard Cider is Easy to Like
A Closer Look at One of the Most Underrated of Beverages
Amidst the cooling days of Autumn and the advent of the harvest, no libation is more apropos than a good apple cider; this spritzy, golden nectar is a tangy and refreshing toast to the season. And when paired with light fare, cider can be as utilitarian as beer or as elegant as Champagne.
Hard cider may maintain strong ties to northern Europe -especially Britain and France- but its traditions in the United States run deep. After centuries of losing favor to beer, wine, and hard and soft drinks, the most popular beverage in colonial America is on the rise again.
A Drink of Kings
Historically, the word cider is believed to be a derivation of the Hebrew shekar, which means "strong drink". The recorded history of cider dates back to the first century B.C. Roman soldiers under Julius Caesar marching across the Kentish countryside in southern Britain discovered this drink and brought it back with them to Rome, introducing it to the rest of Western Europe along the way. Following the Norman conquest of England in 1066, the consumption of cider increased immeasurably (being from the north of France, the Normans had no trouble appreciating this Champagne-like beverage). Under King Henry VIII, there were deliberate attempts to develop apple orchards in England for cider-making purposes. Cider production peaked in the 1700's, only to lose ground to the punitive results of increased taxation of cider in the 1800's.
In the United States, cider was the beverage of choice among the white Anglo-Saxon Protestants that settled the original colonies, but its popularity diminished in the mid-1800's, following the arrival of millions of German and Eastern European immigrants whose preferred drink was beer. Cider lost out again to non-alcoholic soft drinks that were introduced to the American populace at the turn-of-the-century.
Comparing Apples to Apples
Simply defined, hard cider is a beverage made from fermented apple juice, but its flavor and piquancy depend greatly upon the apple varieties used in its production. Apples fall roughly into two categories: bittersweet and culinary. The culinary varieties (Granny Smith, Jonathan, McIntosh, Golden Delicious, etc.) are the ones that are used in apple pies, applesauce or are just eaten plain. The bittersweet apple varieties (Northern Spy, Kingston Black, Golden Russet, Newton Pippen, etc.) tend to have thicker skins, elevated tannin levels and higher acid contents that make them less desirable for common consumption.
Most brand name ciders are blends of the juices of different apple varieties, which create a wider range of flavors. Blending also allows the cider producer to exercise more control over the cider flavor -especially if one or more apple crops experience a bad growing season- and a greater consistency in the finished product.
Cider Styles
Cider flavor can range from sweet to dry, depending on the types of apples that were used in the making of the cider, as well as the yeast strain used to ferment the juice. The “Anglo” style, widely produced in Europe, is generally more tannic and ale-like due to the cider makers' use of ale yeast and bittersweet apples. The “Continental” style, which is more popular in the United States, is generally sweeter and more Champagne-like.
In addition to the widely marketed imported and domestic brands, cider is also produced at the regional and local level, usually wherever apple orchards grow. At this level cider may be served draft style, which is pasteurized and filtered, or in the more natural “farmhouse” style, which is traditionally served unfiltered and unpasteurized. Its production may include optional ingredients such as white and brown sugars and various fruit flavors and spices- depending on the producer and the location.
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